'A Road Less Travelled'

(29 Nov 2008)
A Road Less Travelled - Irish Times The following walk begins in the village of Ballyvaughan, at the entrance to Ballinalacken Castle. From Ballinalacken Castle follow a minor road north for three kilometres until a gateway at Ballynahown marks the beginning of the green road. Click on the  map to the left to open it at a larger size.

Initially the going is mucky in places, but the magnificent view across the Burren landscape to Fanore Beach and the Aran Islands more than compensates.

On your right is vertically unassuming Slieve Elva, which you will doubtless be surprised to learn is the highest point in the Burren. Beneath this apparently incongruous hill lies a complex honeycomb of caves, streams and waterfalls. This subterranean world of wonder is accessed from several swallow holes lying close by the green road, and with 12km of explored passageways it is now accepted as Ireland's most extensive cave system.

Stay firmly above ground, however, and soon you will reach the highest point of the plateau, where stone walls demarcate ancient field systems.

Now descend into the historic Caher Valley and digress briefly to visit the tiny ruins of Formoyle Chapel, on the left. This place of worship from penal times remained in use until near the end of the 19th century. Emerge on a minor road where the wall provides a suitably contemplative resting place to enjoy lunch beside the noisy Caher River, the only Burren waterway to remain above ground throughout its entire length.

Suitably refuelled, you will be prepared as the route labours uphill on the other side of the Caher Valley. A high point is reached beside the impressive stone fort of Caheranardurrish, which is reputed to have accommodated both a church and a drinking den.

Having diverted briefly to explore these ancient stones, you then descend easily into the Feenagh Valley and follow a scenic byway south and then west to join with the main Lisdoonvarna to Ballyvaughan road. Don't take this option, however. Instead go immediately left on a local road past cylindrical Newtown Castle, which was originally built in the 16th century as an O'Brien stronghold and now forms part of the thriving Burren College of Art.

A short distance farther, take the road to the right. Soon after, climb a signposted stile into a field that leads to a hazel forest, conveniently waymarked with plastic strips and arrows on the limestone pavement.

Emerging from the trees, the trail crosses some more fields before conceding to a gravel path beside a sports centre. This leads you back to the coastline in the centre of Ballyvaughan, where anything from a coffee to a high-class meal is on offer to celebrate a great day's outing.

Starting point: It is just a short distance from the village of Ballyvaughan to the entrance for Ballinalacken Castle, and the journey follows the magnificent coast road south by Black Head and Fanore. When the road swings inland, Ballinalacken is on the left, at the junction for Doolin.

Suitability: This is an ideal family walk. Although long, it is waymarked throughout and presents little in the way of objective dangers or navigational problems. For very young children it may be best to complete the walk over two days.

Time: Allow about five hours to complete the route.

Map: Ordnance Survey Ireland Discovery Series sheet 51. Those wishing to read the landscape in detail along the route should invest in Tim Robinson's wonderfully thorough two-inch Map of the Uplands of Northwest Clare.

 

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